Glasgow – going back last weekend to see the city remembered of auld lang syne. After all I have said about the city, with trepidation I stepped out at Glasgow Central – but as long as I was not recognised, it should be all right.
The city’s modern local sage once said that a difference between Edinburgh and Glasgow, is that in Edinburgh if you hear a gunshot, it means it’s one o’clock. By reputation, Glasgow – ye hae yersel’ gey wrang.
The train journey is good one. I stood a while in Carlisle; Cumberland’s fortress city, where the army still guards the castle fortified by Good Queen Bess. It is a historical relic – the threat of war and invasion ended when Nicola Sturgeon was arrested. From there the train surges north through a verdant dale, that stutters into rough moorland as it climbs. Then over the top a wee, sparkling burn joins, fresh from haunts of coot and hern, toying with the railway line, to left and then to right and back again. It swells slowly as the heather-clad muirland softens to green pasture until disappearing in the anonymous townscapes that besiege lower Lanarkshire. Then slowly you draw into the city, and here that same stream is a fat, full-throated river – the Clyde – laced up with bridges as if to stop it getting away.
It is a pity that George Square is currently barred with hoardings, as it as it is the city’s heart. The Square as was had the City Chambers glowering over it disapprovingly, and receiving a defiant gesture in return. We are promised a gleaming new George Square, which promises to be exactly the same as the old.
The Green meanwhile was fenced off last weekend for the climax of the International Piping Festival. It shows how Glasgow has changed: in the 1950s, Lord Carmont would hand out brutally long sentences for carrying an offensive weapon, but now the city welcomes bagpipes. Never have so many miles of tartan been seen together, nor so many men in skirts. The air was rent with skirling from competing bands. One American band had not quite got the message, and were playing in denim; the young women drumming and the young men piping, and doing ot very well for colonials. (You can see the occasional woman playing the pipes, if her lung capacity is enough to fill the bag – and a fearsome sight she is.)
There is a real city, away from the costumes and invented history. I strolled a long time down Buchanan Street – the city’s broad central shopping street. It is quite unlike London’s Oxford Street, because in Glasgow there are practical shops where you can buy real-life things. It is alive with activity, and much is out of the very joy of life, there in the sunshine, or so it seems. Then a short walk across to Nisbets – a head-spinning emporium for new kitchen equipment to help or puzzle our cook.
Even the City Chambers, behind boarded-up George Street, despite the foul dealings which go on behind the doors, can stand in Victorian grandeur, exuberant in a Gothic reading of the neo-Classical, as a promise of what Glasgow can be.
The Glorious Twelfth had recently been and gone when I arrived in the city. For some, the date is a chance to to rise early in a guesthouse on a wind-scoured moor, to eat the first shot grouse of the season, warm from the dog’s mouth – vanity. Grouse is better when it has hung for a few days, and served hot in the comfort of a Glasgow restaurant, with no need to shiver on Rannoch.
The light fades. The city is still lit and never quite slumbering, even if I do. Soon enough it is time to rise and head for the station again. I have stayed all in the respectable part of Glasgow, thriving despite the best efforts of its Council and the Playtime Parliament, and I have an embarrassing confession – I actually love the ‘Dear Green Place’.